Vionnet

Vionnet



Madeleine Vionnet donated most of her designs to the archives of the UFAC (now part of the Musee de la Mode et du Textile in Paris), in 1952, including 120 dresses from 1921 to 1939.
In 1988, the Vionnet label was purchased by the Lummen family. There were no new fashion collections. The family focused on accessories and perfumes ("Madeleine Vionnet" in 1996 and "MV" in 1998). Then in 2006, it was announced that the family had a designer and would be reviving the label of Vionnet as a fashion label. The first collection was the Fall 2007 Ready-to-Wear with designer Sophia Kokosalaki. Her attitude was that “it has to be French, formal, and pure.” The reviews of the small collection were favorable. She did one more collection for the house and then Marc Audibe was appointed the artistic director. He did one collection for the house and then the house stopped revealing the name of its designers.
In early 2009, Matteo Marzotto acquired the label and moved the house to Milan. Marzotto had ties to a powerful textile group established in Italy since 1836. He also announced additional strategic collaboration with Marni. Rudolpho Paglialunga, formerly of Prada, was appointed the new creative director for the house. His first new collection showed at Resort in 2009 and then with a Ready-to-Wear collection in Fall 2009. His second collection was received a little better than his first by the critics. But he was showing his collection on mannequins. The Vionnet collection was all about movement. People wanted to see it on live models moving on a runway. And with his third collection, he gave them what they wanted. He put out a collection that was starting to have an identity of its own. It was identifiable with the Vionnet vision, but with modern lines, and this time on live runway models. The reviewers were appeased. However, in September 2011, Vionnet announced that Paglialunga was being replaced by twin sister designers Barbara and Lucia Croce. Their first show was the Pre-Fall 2012. They had been studying Madeleine Vionnet’s style and precepts. They designed a line using her ideas with a modern flair and it was very well received by reviewers. In their second collection, they continued with their theme and focused on daywear for the professional woman, including lots of pants. Not a single red carpet look in the whole collection. They finally got into cocktail and evening looks with their third collection, Resort 2013. But this would be the last collection for the house over which they had control.